Choosing the right thread for hand-hemming church linens comes down to two different needs. Machine sewing calls for a fine, smooth, high-quality white sewing thread, never heavy quilting or embroidery thread. Traditional hand-hemming asks for something finer still, a single strand of fine white cotton thread, paired with a small needle, so the stitch disappears into the linen rather than sitting on top of it.

This post is Part 2 in our series, The Complete Guide to Church Linen. If you have not yet preshrunk your fabric, start with Part 1: How to Preshrink Linen Before Cutting and Sewing before you thread a needle.

Quick Reference: Thread and Needle at a Glance

• Machine sewing thread: fine, smooth, high-quality white sewing thread
• Machine sewing, avoid: heavy quilting thread or decorative embroidery thread
• Before you sew: test a sample seam and check needle, stitch length, and tension
• Hand-hemming thread: a single strand of fine white cotton thread, 100/2 weight
• Hand-hemming needle: a fine hand-sewing needle, size 10 or 12
• The goal: stitches that disappear into the linen, not sit on top of it

Thread for Machine-Sewn Linen Hems

Step 1, choose a fine, high-quality thread. For machine-sewn hems on church linen, select a fine, smooth, high-quality white sewing thread made for lightweight natural fabrics. This is the thread that will sit closest to the eye once the linen is laid on the altar, so quality matters here more than almost anywhere else in the piece.

Step 2, avoid anything bulky or decorative. Skip heavy quilting thread and decorative embroidery thread for this work. Both are built for a different job. A heavier thread will pile up in the seam, pull the linen out of true, and leave stitches that show instead of disappearing into the fabric. Ecclesiastical Sewing’s embroidery thread collection is a good example of what to reach for when you are doing decorative goldwork, not this kind of quiet, structural hemming.

Step 3, test-sew a sample first. Before you run the machine over the actual linen, sew a short sample seam on a scrap of the same fabric. Use the sample to check your needle, your stitch length, and your tension. A stitch length that looks fine on cotton broadcloth can look coarse on fine linen, and tension that is even slightly too tight will pucker the hem.

Thread for Traditional Hand-Hemming

Step 1, select a fine cotton hemming thread. For the traditional hand-rolled or hand-hemmed edge, work with a single strand of very fine white cotton thread, often labeled a 100/2 weight or sold as heirloom-weight sewing thread. This weight is fine enough to sink into the weave of the linen instead of sitting on top of it.

Step 2, pair it with a fine needle. Use a fine hand-sewing needle, generally a size 10 or 12, to match the thread. A needle that is too large will leave a visible hole in the linen each time it passes through, which defeats the purpose of hand-hemming in the first place.

Step 3, aim for stitches that disappear. Work slowly and keep your stitches small and even. The standard to hold yourself to is simple, the thread should disappear into the linen, not sit visibly on the surface. If you can see a line of stitching from a few feet away, the thread is too heavy, the stitches are too large, or both.

Neither the fine white hemming thread nor the size 10 or 12 hand-sewing needles described above are sold by Ecclesiastical Sewing. Both are commonly available at most fabric or quilting shops, and it is worth keeping a small stock on hand once you find a brand and weight you trust.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use the same thread for machine sewing and hand-hemming?

No. Machine sewing needs a slightly stronger, smooth thread that can handle the tension of a sewing machine, while hand-hemming needs an even finer thread, closer to a 100/2 weight, that can be controlled stitch by stitch with a needle.

What happens if I use embroidery thread for hemming?

Embroidery and goldwork threads are made to be seen. They are heavier and often textured or metallic, so a hem sewn with them will look bulky and draw the eye instead of disappearing, which is the opposite of what a well-finished linen hem should do.

Does thread color matter?

Yes. Use white thread on white linen. Even a thread that looks white in the spool can read as slightly off-white or gray against fine linen, so it helps to hold the spool directly against your fabric in good light before you commit to it.

Where can I buy fine hemming thread and small needles?

Ecclesiastical Sewing does not sell fine white hemming thread or hand-sewing needles. Both are generally available at most fabric or quilting shops. Some seamstresses also finish a hem with a light sizing spray, such as Mary Ellen’s Best Press, before pressing. If you use one, test it on a scrap of the same linen first and apply it sparingly, since altar linens are meant to be laundered and used for years to come.

Once your thread and hem are settled, continue with Part 3: How to Attach Lace to Church Linens, then care for the finished piece with Part 4: Laundering and Pressing Finished Church Linens, and keep Part 5: Removing Wine, Blood, and Wax Stains from Church Linens in mind for when accidents happen. For the full picture, read our foundational guide, 5 Lessons Every Seamstress Should Learn from Sewing Altar Linens. When you are ready to begin, our Style 6011 Small Altar Linens sewing pattern is a good place to start.