To attach lace to church linens without puckering, preshrink and press both the linen and the lace first, then either hand sew the lace with tiny slip stitches along the finished edge or machine stitch it with a short straight stitch and fine matching thread. The method that matters most in both cases is the same: never pull the lace taut while you work. Let it feed naturally so the finished join lies flat and even, not wavy.

This post is Part 3 in The Complete Guide to Church Linen, our series on hand sewing and caring for altar linens. Other parts in the series include Part 1: How to Preshrink Linen Before Cutting and Sewing, Part 2: Choosing the Right Thread for Hand-Hemming Church Linens, Part 4: Laundering and Pressing Finished Church Linens, and Part 5: Removing Wine, Blood, and Wax Stains from Church Linens.

Quick Reference: Attaching Lace to Church Linens

• Preshrink first. Wash and press both the linen and any washable cotton lace before you cut or sew.
• Press flat. Smooth both pieces with an iron without stretching either one.
• Hand sewing. Baste the lace to the finished edge, then slip stitch or overcast it with small, even, nearly invisible stitches.
• Machine sewing. Overlap the lace header slightly onto the finished edge, baste, then stitch slowly with a short straight stitch.
• Never pull. Let the fabric and lace feed naturally so the lace lies flat instead of going wavy.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Preshrink and Press Before You Sew

Lace that puckers after its first laundering is almost never a stitching problem. It is a preshrinking problem. Washable cotton lace shrinks and shifts the same way linen does the first time it meets water and heat, so if you sew lace onto linen that has been preshrunk but the lace has not, the two fabrics will pull against each other the moment the finished piece is washed. Preshrink the lace right alongside your linen, following the method in Part 1 of this series, then press both pieces smooth and dry. This method is for new, washable cotton linen and lace. If you are adding trim to an antique or heirloom altar linen, or working with hand-made lace, silk, or metallic-thread trims, do not machine wash them. Test a hidden corner for colorfastness and fiber strength first, and consider gentle hand-washing or consulting a textile conservator instead. Press gently and evenly. Do not stretch the linen or the lace while pressing, since either one held taut under the iron will relax later and leave the join uneven.

Attaching Lace by Hand

Position the lace. Lay the lace along the finished edge of the linen exactly where you want it to sit, checking that it runs straight and square to the hem before you commit any stitches.

Baste it in place. Baste the lace securely along its full length. This holds the lace steady while you do the permanent stitching and is worth the extra few minutes, especially on a long edge like a fair linen.

Stitch with small, even stitches. Using tiny slip stitches or overcast stitches, catch the header of the lace and only a few threads of the linen with each stitch. The goal is a join so small and even that it is nearly invisible from the front. A fine sharp needle, a size 10 or 12, is a comfortable choice for this kind of close work and is available at most fabric or quilting shops. Work at a steady pace and keep both layers relaxed under your hands rather than drawing either one tight.

Attaching Lace by Machine

Overlap the header. Lay the straight header of the lace so it overlaps slightly onto the finished edge of the linen, rather than butting the two edges together.

Baste first. Baste the overlap in place before you sew it on the machine. This single step prevents most of the shifting that causes puckering later.

Stitch slowly. Using fine matching thread and a short straight stitch, sew the lace on slowly and evenly. Let the fabric and lace feed under the presser foot at their own pace instead of guiding or pulling them forward, which is the most common cause of a wavy machine-sewn join.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need to preshrink the lace, or only the linen?

Preshrink both, provided both are new and washable. See the caution above if you are working with an antique, heirloom, or non-cotton trim. If you sew lace onto preshrunk linen without preshrinking the lace itself, the first laundering can pull the two out of alignment, leaving the join wavy even if your original stitching was perfect. See Part 1 of this series for the full preshrinking method.

Should I attach lace by hand or by machine?

Either method works well on church linens, and the choice usually comes down to the piece. Hand sewing gives the most control on small or curved edges, such as a corporal or purificator, and produces a nearly invisible join. Machine sewing is faster and holds up well on long, straight runs, such as a fair linen edge, provided you baste first and stitch slowly.

What thread should I use to attach lace?

Use a fine, matching thread that disappears into the lace and linen rather than standing out as a visible line. A fine 50 or 60 weight cotton thread, available at most fabric or quilting shops, is a common choice for this kind of construction sewing. This is different from decorative goldwork embroidery thread, which is meant for ornamental stitching rather than attaching lace. If you are working goldwork elements elsewhere on the piece, see our embroidery thread collection for that separate purpose.

Why does my lace look wavy or puckered after I sew it on?

Wavy or puckered lace almost always comes down to tension. If the lace or the linen is stretched while it feeds under the needle or through your fingers, it draws back up once that tension releases, leaving ripples along the seam. Baste first, sew slowly, and let both layers feed at their own pace rather than pulling either one taut.

How to Attach Lace to Church Linens is Part 3 in The Complete Guide to Church Linen. Read Part 1: How to Preshrink Linen Before Cutting and Sewing, Part 2: Choosing the Right Thread for Hand-Hemming Church Linens, Part 4: Laundering and Pressing Finished Church Linens, and Part 5: Removing Wine, Blood, and Wax Stains from Church Linens to work through the whole process from cut fabric to a finished, laundered linen. For the full picture, read our foundational guide, 5 Lessons Every Seamstress Should Learn from Sewing Altar Linens. When you are ready to choose your lace, browse our Lace, Church Trims and Notions collection, dozens of options suited to altar linens, corporals, and purificators, trusted by our community of 22,737 makers.